Meridian Arts and Sciences

The Elements of Patterning

Mistress Sindokht Bayat al-Herati

Supplies: In order to pattern, you need to have the following at hand. Paper (newspaper works but leaves ink smudges), pens, measuring tape, T-square, yardstick, pins, sewing chalk, mock-up fabric, full length mirror, and a willing friend.

Research: The “what” and “why” of your garment. What do you want to make? Why are you making this garment? What you want to make can vary from “I need some clothes” to “I want to look cool.” It will depend on your persona, the weather, and what your individual taste is. The “why” is just as important. This can vary from “I need kitchen work stuff” to “ I am entering Kingdom A&S”. How you pattern is determined by the answers to these questions. Research does not have to entail visiting the library. Asking Master So-and-so, who makes this garment often, is also research.

Measuring: To begin with, you need to take really good measurements. This means paying close attention to where you place the measuring tape and always remember to wear whatever undergarments you will be wearing with this garment. When you measure take into account seam allowance and stretch of the fabric you will be using for the final product. Write these measurements down and if they seem odd, take them again to make sure. What you measure will depend on the garment, but the following are standard measurements: Neck, shoulders, bicep, arm length, chest, waist, hips, thigh, calf, waist-to-floor, inseam, and crotch.

Paper Pattern: Next you transfer those measurements onto a paper pattern. Ideally, you have a general idea of the shape of the individual pattern pieces. This is where that research comes in! Most times, there is a book, an article, a Complete Anachronist, class handouts or a more modern pattern that you can start with in order to help you with your paper pattern. The measurements you took now have to be transferred onto the paper pattern that you are working with.

The Mock - Up: After you have worked out as much as possible with a paper pattern, you make a mock-up. This is a very loosely constructed garment made out of cheap or old fabric. Don't bother with finish work on the mock-up. Simply transfer your paper pattern to the fabric and cut it out. Sew it up and put it on. Does it fit? If your fit is perfect, you're done! However, most of the time something will not be right. The skirt is too short, the sleeve too tight, the seams are falling wrong. Whatever the problem is this is were the sewing chalk and pins come into play. Put on the mock-up inside out and pin out the problem. Sometimes this means you have to rip out part of a seam or you realize that the seam needs to be in a different place. Whatever the problem, use the chalk and pins to mark the needed changes and then re-sew the mock-up. Try it on again and see how it fits. Often this process may need to go through several versions until you get it just right.

Final Pattern : Once you work out all the problems with your mock-up, you are ready to use the mock-up as a pattern. Rip apart the mock-up, taking care to follow any changes that you made. Then use those pieces to cut out the final garment in the good fabric. You can transfer the mock-up back to good paper or simply iron it out and use it as your final pattern piece.

Fabric Preparation : Before cutting out your final garment, make sure you have washed and dried your fabric. Wash and dry it the way you will after you make the garment. This allows any fading or shrinking to occur before sewing the garment. If your fabric fades or shrinks, wash it a second time to make sure it will stop doing this!!!! Sometimes, that awesome fabric turns out to be horrible and the time to discover this is before you spend 20 hours hand sewing the garment. Iron the fabric so it will lay flat and neat and then lay out all of the pattern pieces on the fabric. Do you still have enough fabric to get all of the pieces onto it? Do you need extra fabric for ties or a pouch to match? Make sure everything is right before cutting. Also, pay attention to nap. There are certain fabrics that have a nap that causes the light to hit the fabric differently. When using those fabrics, everything must be cut in the same direction. This means no “flipping” pattern pieces upside down in order to save fabric! Also be careful to follow the grain.

Cutting Out The Pattern : Be careful to pin the pattern pieces carefully in place. Make sure there are no folds or bunches under the pattern piece. If you need to cut more than one of a certain piece, make sure to carefully lift and re-pin the pattern piece. Cut closely and evenly along the edges. Sloppy cutting can cause major fit problems latter on.

You are now ready to sew . Good Luck!

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